My CLW PRR H10-B Completed... with additional info.

[Robert]

Maybe some of you will enjoy seeing my finally completed CLW PRR H10. I bought the kit from Joe Foehrkolb back in 2010 if memory serves me correctly. He sold me a really nice complete kit with the brass drivers. I charged into it initially until I had an operating chassis. Then completed the tender all the way through final paint and decaling. After that I parked it in an engine house to keep it away from the usual dust. Every now and then I worked away on the cast boiler trying to add a few PRR specific details beyond what was included with the original kit.

Other projects took me away from it until earlier this summer. It became all important once again. I dug out the completed boiler and grit blasted it to freshen it up, and hopefully give the casting a chance at looking decent in paint.

I base coated it with a light coat of grey auto primer from a spray bomb…a few days curing and I shot Scalecoat mixed 2/3 Brunswick Green 1/3 Loco Black (Ed Rappe Pennsy DGLE recipe)… Next came decals from my stash of Champ stuff. Then I brushed on a coat of NEO-Lube to simulate the graphite finish everywhere a color photo showed that it belonged. Next a coat of Scalecoat satin to seal the deal. I added all the various lenses and Schuylkill Division Plates I had bought from Doug Jones before he passed away. They are exceptional. Then acetate for the windows, cab curtains, and a temporary coal load. Then carefully mated the boiler to the chassis without ruining anything (easier said than done).

I know this is a common model, but I don’t have many locomotives and I think it’s a beauty. Runs like a watch (Rolex)…

I wish the casting wasn’t so rough but it is a door stop.

Robert

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[Tom Dempsey]

Looks great to me, and most importantly, you built it so it's really yours.

[E7]

Stick a Protocraft coupler on it and it's perfect!

Rich

[bob turner]

One of my favorites, and the first steam kit I built. Looks beautiful, as does the track and scenery. I agree - Protocraft on front.

[RDSRR]

Beautiful work. I have yet to attempt this type of project but and now ready to try.

[bob turner]

Looks even better on the big computer, now on for my PRR thread. I see no flaws in that cast boiler. How do you pick up current?

[John Webster]

Inspirational!

[De Bruin]

That's a beauty Robert; please if you can run down the running characteristics and details around the power train.
On a different note- the finish quality and photo background are excellent!
Great locomotive! You got the touch.
Pete

[Robert]

I appreciate the good words gentlemen, and will address a couple questions.

Bob T. asked how I pick up current…well one of the changes I made in building the tender was to replace the wood floor with a sheet of .125” thick aluminum. I work much better with metal, and obviously the pickup could then be had the usual way through one side of the trucks. The other pickup through the engine frame. There’s a single pin/socket pickup wire between engine and tender.

Pete D. asked about the running characteristics and power train details…Early on in the chassis build I became increasing dissatisfied with the kit motor. Everyone seemed to like it but me, and it had to do with my particular motors tendency to bog/stall if it encountered any stiffness in the valve gear. I had several issues getting the valve gear to smooth out and run right and it eventually did, but I became curious as to the worth in changing out the stock motor.
I dug through the various sources until I found Protocraft was selling the Pittman 9233 for a reasonable price. I ordered one and even though it was a snug fit, it DID FIT. I machined an aluminum saddle for it to rest in and that screwed to the chassis. A small sheet of inner tube to cushion the motor, and a tywrap secured the motor to the saddle. A section of model aircraft fuel line connects the motor to the gearbox shaft. Results…ultra smooth quiet uninterrupted motion. The Pittman was a double ended shaft design so I cut off the back shaft. I didn’t want that oddball motor (almost sacrilegious) to show in the cab, so I made a plastic cover from sheet styrene. It slips over the back half of the motor. I paint the cover flat black and that Pittman has all but disappeared. The rest of the drive train is per the stock components. I use DCC and this engine is using a TCS T1 decoder rated at 1 amp continuous and 1.7 amp max. Not sure what might have happened if I had stayed with the stock motor…but it was a learning and somewhat experimental experience and I’m satisfied with the end results.

Now about that Protocraft coupler…I wanted a working Kadee compatible with the rest of my Kadees…so opted for what I know will work.

Also for any Pennsy watchers who might question the paint scheme, it is per the 1952 paint shop maintenance data...NO red cab roof

Robert

[rrjjf]

Robert.

A first class assembly of a very nice kit.

Joe

[bob turner]

Reason I asked about power - later kits had plastic drivers. Pickups as designed are almost impossible to install.

[E7]

Now about that Protocraft coupler…I wanted a working Kadee compatible with the rest of my Kadees…so opted for what I know will work.Robert

That stupid trip pin on the coupler ruins the appearance of the engine. Looks like an air hose (after how many beers) NOT! I could be wrong, but it seems to me in OST's coupler test, the Protocraft would mate up with a KD.

[CMorrill]

The Kadee and Protocraft will couple, but it ain't pretty! The photo shows my only Kadee (on the track cleaner) coupled to a Clouser coupler --- same as Protocraft except draft gear. Coupling and uncoupling is done lifting the pin with the cut lever.

Charlie

[Robert]

Now about that Protocraft coupler…I wanted a working Kadee compatible with the rest of my Kadees…so opted for what I know will work.Robert

That stupid trip pin on the coupler ruins the appearance of the engine. Looks like an air hose (after how many beers) NOT! I could be wrong, but it seems to me in OST's coupler test, the Protocraft would mate up with a KD.

Well the trip pin doesn't compliment the appearance I'll give you that Rich, but certainly doesn't ruin the appearance either. However a simple fix was to clip off the offending trip pin since my uncoupling method doesn't depend on it. New photo W/O the pin should help ease your distress... ....

Robert

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[E7]

A GREAT improvement!