Scratch Building #6 Turnouts (was Trout Creek/BK Enterprises Turnouts???

[Jay Criswell]

I'd say say try it and see. It's worthless to you the way it is and it was free. What do you have to lose? I will add though, be very careful and use the highest speed you feel comfortable with. Slower speeds tend to create the binding and grabbing you want to avoid. So high speed, light cuts.

If you create a gouge or nick you don't want just fill it with solder and smooth the surface.


Jay

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Absolutely correct Jay, thanks.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

I've decided to change the name to Scratch Building #6 Turnouts, cause that's what I'm doing and TC/BKE didn't come into play at all:D

I ordered a spike tool from MicroMark, so until it gets here I decided to cut a piece of the rubber mat (really a piece from the old mat I had) to use as roadbed for one of the turnouts:

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I beveled the edges on the bandsaw and will cut it to a finished width once I have a turnout built. The rubber is very easy to cut/trim. Right now it's 5" wide and 24" long.

Then a made a frog soldering board from a length of red oak:

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Not much but at least it's a start.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Damn this hobby!!! I got up at 04:30 this morning because all I could think about was working on this turnout!!!

Couldn't wait for the spike tool so I started laying ties:

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threw some Burnt Sienna on them:

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Before I knew it I had laid down the first piece of track:

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Then the second:

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Now I have to break out the soldering iron (reminder...get a fire extinguisher for the train room )

Should I dip the spikes in super glue so they'll hold better?

What do you do if you find the rails are not in gauge?

Once the spikes are in place and you find the rails are not in gauge, then chances are the holes made by the spikes have made that tie useless for reuse.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Damn this hobby!!! I got up at 04:30 this morning because all I could think about was working on this turnout!!!

Couldn't wait for the spike tool so I started laying ties

I've never used a spike tool - just a good pair of needle nose pliers.

threw some Burnt Sienna on them

I generally use leftover Minwax - all leftovers get added to a single bottle and diluted a bit so that the coloration "wanders" as I go and leftover colors get added.

Before I knew it I had laid down the first piece of track:

Then the second

Now I have to break out the soldering iron (reminder...get a fire extinguisher for the train room )

Should I dip the spikes in super glue so they'll hold better?

Could, but I've never done that.....

What do you do if you find the rails are not in gauge?

The objective is to not put the rail in place out of gauge, but drift happens. Pull the spikes and push/pull/tap back into gauge and re-spike -- now back to that dipping spikes in CA......

Once the spikes are in place and you find the rails are not in gauge, then chances are the holes made by the spikes have made that tie useless for reuse.

Not ruined any ties as yet from having to re-spike......but I guess it could happen. Pull and replace ties just like in real life,

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Thanks Martin! Next question, what do you use to bend the point/closure rails? I don't feel like spending $80-90 on a rail bender. Thinking of making one but I see a variety of them on the web.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Thanks Martin! Next question, what do you use to bend the point/closure rails?

I think almost all of mine were bent and/or cut into in place as needed - couple of pairs of pliers, a pair of big nippers and a 4" upright belt sander.....

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Hmmm. I think I'll try 3 nails driven into a board, or maybe 3 screws (if I can figure out the distances between them for the curve in the rails)

[Rufus T. Firefly]

It's not rocket science,

And, there's no need to over-complicate this either.

[Robert]

Bob...I'd say your on a roll there buddy... Never dipped spike in glue...they hold fine in dry form, certainly up to the task. Approximate prebending of the rail can be done with your hands...and use the drawing to get the prebend fairly close. The actual bend of the rails, the final positioning using your track gages, and the spiking will get them fixed nicely.
The frog is often the first part laid by many. Then your able to align to it with the stock rails...and from there the point positioning becomes obvious. You can do it any way you find success though.
Did you order the spiking pliers from Micro Mark ? If so there actually quite helpful verses common needle nose pliers...I was late in finally buying a pair but wish I had done so long ago.

Keeping Spiking...

Robert

[Jay Criswell]

I'm not an expert by any stretch but I would say no to the CA. It just isn't needed. The ties should hold the spikes just fine. Having said that, if for some reason, you have a spike, or spikes, pulling loose carefully investigate the reason. Maybe a low spot, or tie, maybe just too loose, etc. Once you fix the offending issue you could put a drop of thin CA on the spike and let capillary action take over. Bottom line, CA is great stuff but it can sure cause problems too.

Bending the rail should be easy enough to do by hand. Just take your time.

After gluing down the ties I like to sand them with a long sanding block (over 2' long) to remove any high spots and identify low spots. To get sand paper long enough I use strips meant for a belt sander. Actually, sanding after the initial staining can be advantageous......far easier to see any offending ties and then re-stain with a slightly different color. I like the different color just to break things up a little.

Placement of the frog is critical and so is the point. Gotta make sure the throw rods end up between the ties!

The cool thing is, each time you finish a turnout you'll be more knowledgeable than the last and it will get easier.

Thanks for sharing. I look forward to the #8 double slip switch build,

Jay

[Rufus T. Firefly]

After gluing down the ties I like to sand them with a long sanding block (over 2' long) to remove any high spots and identify low spots. To get sand paper long enough I use strips meant for a belt sander. Actually, sanding after the initial staining can be advantageous......far easier to see any offending ties and then re-stain with a slightly different color. I like the different color just to break things up a little.

Excellent idea and tips!!!

I've also used ties of different types of wood to get color variations; cut my own. I think that the commercial ties are just too uniform and too polished in appearance.

[Seaboard Air Line Fan]

Thanks guys!

Jay, I did run a sanding block along the ties, but the ties you sent me were so good they didn't need much. I think I'll give that frog you sent a try before I start soldering one together too. It's too pretty not to at least try and use it.

Robert, I did get the pliers from MicroMark, should get them Thursday.

I had to go out, and on the way home stopped at the local hardware store and picked up 3 rollers like you'd see on a sliding screen door and some #6 button head screws to hold the rollers down to a piece of aluminum I have. I think I can fashion a rail bender out of them, if not I'll do it by hand.

[Jay Criswell]

BobD,

Jay, I did run a sanding block along the ties, but the ties you sent me were so good they didn't need much.

Just don't polish them. Mr. Firefly gets pissed!

I like what you're building for bending the rail. I could see using something like that.

Jay

[bob turner]

My brother made a bunch of them - adjustable - for the late Vince Waterman. I have one, and use it, but you need to know that it does not work on the ends. They are great for mainline curves, but I bet pliers will be just as good for a switch.