Best paints/chalks for weathering

[up148]

I've used chalks in the past and now thinking about adding acrylics as well, especially since watching some threads on the internet (one was Lee Turners).

Anyone weathering on this forum and have any suggestions on brands they've had success with?

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I have a couple of sets of Bragdon powders, and then several from some unknown source that seem very similar in action. Many rath erlike all the Pan pastels and some even rave about them. Not tried any as yet. Too busy building, I guess.

[up148]

Thanks Rufus. I'll look up the PAN pastels and see what they have.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Those pan pastel sets are not cheap, but folks like them -- probably some good stuff on YouTube.

[Chris Rock]

I've used Pan Pastels to get some light weathering on the models quickly so they didn't look all clean for photographs. I've used black about 99% of the time and a little of the gray. It is very easy to apply. I definitely didn't need the whole palette they offer. I wouldn't say it is perfect since it is difficult to get into tight corners, but I'm very, very happy with it until I can get into weathering more intensely. It just goes on so quickly and is forgiving which made the benefits of the Pan Pastels a no brainer, even if temporary.

Don't get the pastels on the rails. It is a little oily and dirty.

[up148]

Have been communicating with Lee Turner and he says PAN brand is the best on chalks as well. He doesn't use chalks much and agreed they are expensive. Told me his choice for weathering paint (air brushing, brushing and dry brushing) was Vallejo or Testors, then changed his mind and said Testors as it works for all 3 and does a great job. I first used testors 60 years ago building model cars.

He says Rustoleum bought many of the hobby paint companies (owns Testors now), but did away with several and says to check some of the spray paints in the big box stores as in the fine print it shows several competing brands are actually made by Rustoleum. I didn't know any of this, but interesting.

[bob turner]

Glad you posted that. I used to be a Krylon user. Then they changed something and I went to Rustoleum. They had changed to quick dry formula and it worked well. Now I can get one use ut of a Rustoleum rattle can, then it clogs internally (yes, I know how to clean nozzles).

So being ornery in my old age, if it says Rustoleum on it, I won't buy it. For rattle cans, Dupli-Color seems to be ok.

I used to use Floquil and a Paasche model H for weathering. Greg sent me some chalks, and now I swear by them. Overdo it, and then carefully apply a clear matte finish. Floquil used to work, so long as you thinned it with Diosol. Lacquer thinner would destroy it and clog the airbrush.

I have not painted many trains lately, but would not hesitate to skip the airbrush and use Dupli-Color.

[up148]

I've have a nice paint booth (10 to 12 years old and still new) and a very old Paasche air brush that I might have used once 20-25 years ago. Hoping to learn that aspect of the hobby soon as I want to change some paint schemes on brass and plastic cars. But, for now, looking for solutions strictly for weathering and chalks and dry brushing seems to work.

Have some dull coat, but looking for something else to shoot over the chalks and dry brushing and was hoping to find something in a larger rattle can (Rustoleum clear dull)...not sure now.

Everything is an experiment at this stage so I'll just have to keep checking products out and listen to others for suggestions.

[bob turner]

Rustoleum will work once or twice. You just wind up throwing 3/4 of its contents in the trash. Dupli-Color is at Pep Boys, and good to the last drop - can be stored for years after the first use.

[up148]

Thanks Bob I'll try it. Went to their site and they seem to be carried by many of the local automotive parts resellers. Looks like they have a plastic adhesion promoter too, so maybe that will be the answer for Delrin parts.

[up148]

Ordered and received a set of PAN weathering chalks. Got them yesterday and tried them briefly and I now know why they are expensive. These chalks are ground very, very fine and more like the consistency of women's make-up, than chalks. They cover much smoother, more complete (less brush or sponge strokes) and with much less waste than the others I've used.

I have older Bragdon weathering powders and some Rembrandt artist chalk sticks I've had for decades. Ground the Rembrandt stick down to chalk and they did a decent job. But, you need to put wax paper under the model while weathering, because 50% of these chalk winds up on the paper instead of the model. These PAN pastels lose maybe 5% in the same process.....and they really stick. Using the included sponges (and the plastic handle to hold the sponges) that comes with the PAN system you can almost paint the model with chalk....again the same softness of make-up sponges I've had my wife purchase for me. But, these are much smaller and get into the corners incredibly well and the finish is much smoother.

Also, I noticed the PAN chalks are so fine, if there is powder remaining in corners or on door tracks, it's the size of scale rust and could be clear coated to keep loose rust affect.

Sorry to sound like a commercial, but I'm impressed. They will make a weathering rookie (like me) look better than I am.

Thanks for the suggestion as this is a great tool for me.

[up148]

I wouldn't say it is perfect since it is difficult to get into tight corners, but I'm very, very happy with it until I can get into weathering more intensely.

Chris, that's the one thing I really liked about the PAN pastels, as with a small brush I can get it anywhere with good results. Sponges are limited to open areas, but a brush will get anywhere I need to go so far. The other chalks were hard to fade lettering, but these pastels just make it so simple.

I screwed up building my 1st IM kit in a decade or so (got ahead of myself) and didn't paint the black frame and some black details before installing them. So, I had to hit the underside of the car with boxcar red (all I had), which was much brighter than the UP oxide color of the car. Had the brake air line installed under the frame as well and supports for air reserve tank and air valve too. Did an acrylic wash on the underside and it helped, but once I applied the PAN chalks I was able to get to the inside and outside of the frame and all side supports, plus corners very easily. This was very, very difficult with the other chalks. Nice thing about the acrylic wash was it left the underside blotchy and cracks between the simulated wood floor dark and once the chalks went on it really looks good and not uniform. Got lucky as it was a mess before.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Got lucky as it was a mess before.

No, no, no........you are supposed to state that you it all planned that way,

[up148]

Oh yeah, it came out just like I planned from the start.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Got lucky as it was a mess before.

No, no, no........you are supposed to state that you it all planned that way,

There you go!