GP9 Project

[up148]

I've always been drawn to 1950's diesels and especially F units and GP9's. I bought a bunch of Red Caboose decorated shells and brass frames from Des Plaines Hobbies back in the 90's for this project, along with one stock RC powered kit. The plan was to build up a 3-4 units consist and now I finally gathered enough parts and interest to get started.

Besides the decorated DPH RC shells, I recently purchased a decorated Atlas shell with chassis, which is the same as the RC model, but has metal walkway/chassis and metal stanchions and handrails....parts that were always the achilles heels on the RC model. And except for some obvious changes to the chassis for the Atlas drive, everything measures out dimensionally and you can even interchange shells and cabs between them.

I also picked up a RC GP9 conversion chassis from John Wubble at AN. It's for converting the RC models to his drives and he did a great job. I plan on using this conglomeration of parts to built up several dummies and pull/push them with a built up power chassis that Jay built for me 15 years ago.

So, we'll see how this goes and I'll post photos.

[Jay Criswell]

Butch,

Only vague memory of that one. Of all the frames you show I much prefer the brass version that used to be available from Des Plaines Hobbies. As far as I know they are no longer stocked. Why do I prefer them? Because I can solder things to them. I have seen a few that were warped...and that's a bad thing. Looks like one of the old sway backs from back in the '50s. Yours looks to be warped also.

Actually, backing up slightly, the very best frames I have are the machined brass frames done by Lou @CLW for these models. Absolute brutes and beautiful.

I recently repaired one from DPH that I'd done quite some time ago and that frame was warped. Was it like that when I first got it? I dunno. I might have missed it. I stripped the frame and soldered brass inner frame rails. The originals were plastic and not shown in the photos. I will attempt to attach a Photobucket album that shows photos of the rebuild/repair.

https://photobucket.com/share/c6756609- ... 0dc7005c32

We may have to install the larger 2842 Faulhaber gear head motor if the loco can't pull what you want with the existing Faulhaber gear head motor.

We may want to go with a larger Tang Band speaker too.

Jay

[bob turner]

I too was intrigued by the computer-machined billet brass frames. That's the modern version of a sand-cast frame.

[Jay Criswell]

Trying to stick with the subject of Red Caboose/Atlas GPs. This is one I did for Nev (from Perth). No DCC straight DC.

https://photobucket.com/share/d27177de- ... 00efa35723

Experimented with rotating bearing caps too.

Bottom line, Nev, and his gang, loved it.

Jay

[up148]

You almost hate to see a shell go on that beauty........it's a moving work of art.

[R.K. Maroon]

Thanks for all the photos and accompanying narrative, Jay. I always enjoy (and admire) the "solid quailty" of your installations. I know from my own piddling around what an investment in time and material it takes to be able to do that kind of custom work.

Jim

[Jay Criswell]

Thanks Jim,

...and then there was the Abilene Flyer!

Jay

[sleepmac]

Jay, that GP sure is a work of art/craftsmanship. One question please: Why did you choose a chain drive over a belt or gearing?

thank you,
Dan Weinhold

[Jay Criswell]

Dan,

I use both. Biggest reason, the pulleys come in IDs that aren't always easy to deal with. Sometimes you have to bore them out, other times you have to install bushings. Once bored, or bushed, to the right ID I have to turn down the flanges on the pulleys. This can be tricky and if I get to aggressive the flange will break off the hub. A rather expensive issue.

I have the Delrin sprockets cast in brass and I can easily bore them to whatever ID I need and install a set screw that mates up with a flat spot on the shaft. By the way, I've never had a brass sprocket split on me .

Because I use gear head motors all my chains, sprockets, pulleys, and belts operate far slower than drives with just a motor.

Sometimes people ask for one or the other and I try to accommodate them.

In the end both work just fine.


Jay

[sleepmac]

Jay, thank you!

Dan Weinhold

[Dennis Holler]

Thanks for all the links and description Jay! That is spectacular work! Great inspiration.

[up148]

Pretty quiet around here so I'll toss in my meager amount of work on this project. There has been lots of stops and starts, delays hunting for parts and waiting for them to be delivered. Lots of time spent brainstorming and rethinking what I want with what can be accomplished without completely reinventing the wheel.

I bought several P&D Hobbies repower kits with brass trucks from another modeler recently. Since I'm building dummies I will resell these kits, less the trucks, to another modeler who can use them. I needed correct wheels/axles to replace the geared P&D's and I purchased them from Jay. They came out great as you can see (thanks Jay).

Turns out the placement of the body bolster on the AN chassis puts the ride height way too high, so I cut out the AN bolster and glue a Red Caboose bolster on top of the chassis and the fit is very close. I'll fiddle with it a little more, but I'm confident I can get it down to correct height. BTW, the weight of what you see in the photos is 2lbs-4ozs so it should ride great. The others won't weigh this much, but I have the brass frame inserts I got from DHS and they will add weight to those as well.

I want each of the 2 or 3 dummies to have sound and lights. I know nothing about DCC, but I communicated with a friend who does. Apparently, I can use HO decoders in the dummies since there is no motor draw or I can actually MU all the locos together and borrow sound/lights from the powered unit. The plus side of the HO decodes is I can program each decoder for a different engine rpm/sound just like prototype multi-unit trains. Still up in the air on that decision.

I hope to start in on this project in earnest since I have most of what I need. Now it's just a matter of making everything fit and building the best model I can. I'm looking for photos or diagrams of under body detail on GP9's and hope to add as much as I can to hide screw holes and compromised areas.

[bob turner]

Those Blomberg trucks are works of art.

Yes, slow around here - Martin and I are carrying on about some relatively obscure stuff on the 3-rail side, which is also, sadly, moribund.

But cheer up - at least for 2-rail, we are busier than OGR.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Those Blomberg trucks are works of art.

I have a brass switcher that I need to rebuild/repower resting on the back on my bench that has those trucks under it. Someday soon I will have to dive into that project if only to clear off that part of my bench,

Yes, slow around here - Martin and I are carrying on about some relatively obscure stuff on the 3-rail side, which is also, sadly, moribund.

Is oddly slow there...

But cheer up - at least for 2-rail, we are busier than OGR.

Given that OGR really doesn't care about much of anything than it's own self-aggrandizement, it's unsurprising that anything other than it's core worshipers hand around particularly when it's a pay to play environment.

As for activity here. check out the Freight Cars thread,

[up148]

I've noticed a car forum I frequent has been very slow as well. Might be the weather, as we should be having early fall temps by now, but seems we're still languishing in summer weather. We're still cooking in OK with high 90's and lots of 100+ days......and no change in sight. We got maybe 1/4" of rain last Thursday, which was the first rain since July. Just doesn't feel like September yet.